Author: Freya1

Wow, stunning, extraordinary – these words don’t even come close.

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Starting off with the termite mounds. Two types – magnetic and cathedral. These guys are extraordinarily clever. They build their mounds to face north/south in order to keep them as cool as possible. Considering these bugs are blind, and therefore can’t see where the sun rises and sets, they do a pretty extraordinary job.

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Plus, they can be as high as 5 metres. Not bad for a few little ants.

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Next on the list was Buley Rockholes. A nice kilometre or so walk takes you along a few great swimming holes.

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Then on to the renowned Florence Falls.

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The swimming hole at the bottom of the Falls can be accessed via 135 very steep metal steps.

After Florence, I stopped at Tolmer Falls. Car park empty, just me. About a km walk to a platform and the most magnificent sight. I loved Tolmer Falls!! The photos don’t do it justice. I was very high up on a platform with nothing and nobody around except bush. You need to zoom in to see that there actually was water falling. Plus, even from that height, I could see that the water hole was so clear and clean. It was idyllic!

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I was speaking to a ranger later who has been in the park for nearly 30 years and has never seen so few people there. I feel extraordinarily lucky to have had Tolmer Falls to myself for a little while.

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And, lastly, to Wangi Falls, probably the most popular spot in Litchfield.

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To gain some perspective, zoom in towards the bottom of the left hand waterfall. You should see a man and woman sitting on a ledge after their swim.

It is a really stunning sight and the most easily accessible Falls and swimming hole in the park.

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Found out that it was about to be a long weekend for Darwin and that Litchfield NP would be packed for the next few days, so stopped at the Banyan Tree CP to wait it out (have a shower, do washing etc.)

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Great camp spot run by two young people, Johnny and his wife, giving it their best shot. They have a farm (horses, sheep, goats) around the park and chickens wandering through and, occasionally, laying eggs.

Johnny told me about a little lake down a dirt road so off I went.

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Had the place all to myself! Lots of birds and peace and quiet.

I had only one day at Edith Falls but will definitely stop again on the way back. What a stunning place.

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I would have liked a swim but the squeals from two young girls, with only their feet in, put me off a bit. Apparently the water hole is quite deep and, therefore, quite cold

I went for a short walk up the southern side of the falls but when I go back am determined to walk to the top on the northern side.

The signs around the campsite of a 66 year old who went on the walk 2 years ago and hasn’t been seen since is a tad off-putting but I hear the view at the top is stunning.

I left the next morning with the intention of getting to Wangi Falls camping ground in Litchfield NP but was delayed by several hours due to a very nasty crash between a road train and a car. Considering the speed limit here is 130kph it was pretty awful and shook me up a bit.

By the time I reached Batchelor, I’d had enough so camped there for the night and was visited by a very cute and friendly fellow.

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It’s been a while since I’ve had enough signal to post but here goes.

After Daly Waters I headed on to Mataranka. When my friend, Kirsty, and I travelled through there about 7 years ago, it was a cute and thriving little town. We’d stopped at a very quirky little cafe which I remembered with fondness. So, I was really looking forward to my coffee and cake on the way there.

Sadly, Mataranka has gone the way of a lot of country towns and is obviously struggling. All the little shops, and the cute cafe, have shut. There’s a new service station in town, the old service station and the pub. Such a shame!

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However, I drove out to the Bitter Springs camp ground which is a wonderful camp, plenty of trees and scrub, right on an offshoot of the Roper River and 10 minutes walk to the thermal springs.

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The swim was great, however, swimming in a warm bath when the outside temperature is 32° is not really refreshing.

A lot of people go there with pool noodles and float to the end of the stream then walk back to the top and float on down again.

I noticed a few people with goggles and snorkels and wondered what the heck they’d be looking at when the water is so crystal clear that you can see without that. However, under the reeds at the sides, apparently, are lots of tortoises. I’ll be bringing my goggles next time I’m here.

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This sign made me chuckle. I only hope the crocs can read it too and stick to their designated areas!

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And who should be camped two sites up from me? You guessed it, my mate Al.

Got over the NT border too easily. Just a handing over of paperwork which I had filled in previously, a check of licence and rego and the charming young policeman wished me a safe journey. Took all of 5 seconds.

Spent my first night in the Territory at Barkly Homestead. Such a great place and the only roadhouse between the Queensland border and The Three Ways, which is about 460k in. Ran into a guy there who I had camped beside in Barcaldine, Al. Nice enough fella but I can’t stop looking at his one tooth when he talks to me!!

Took off this morning intending to stop at Banka Banka Outstation but, as the NT roads are very straight and very good, plus the speed limit is 130kph, I was there in no time and decided to continue on (after paying $90.01 for 45 litres of fuel and $6.80 for a standard size coffee) to Daly Waters.

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Daly Waters is renowned for it’s very interesting pub.

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The ceilings are adorned with bras, knickers and jocks, the walls with different currencies, hats, thongs, bottle tops etc. It’s a fun place in general.

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Went for a beer when I arrived and got cornered at the bar by a guy who was very bitter about having lost his business due to Covid and who went to great lengths to explain to me that it’s not as bad as it’s being made out to be and it’s just being exploited by the Unions. Ah well, I am in the Outback after all.

And, who should be camped next to me? You guessed it. One tooth!

Left Winton on Sunday morning

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With the intention of stopping at either the Blue Heeler pub at Kynuna or Crocodile Dundee’s pub at McKinley.

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Funnily enough, my neighbours Ann and Russ were at Walkabout Creek having a coldie when I arrived.

It was still quite early in the day and there’s not a lot to do in those places so I kept on driving. This is brolga country and plenty can be seen as you drive along.

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Anyway, looked at a couple of other camping spots but ended up staying in Mt Isa. Holey Dooley. The campground reception was behind bars. I was told to lock myself and all possessions inside at night and, even if I got up during the night to go to the loo, to lock the van and bathroom door behind me. Hhhmmm, a few problems there I think.

So, took off early on Monday and came to camp by a billabong just out of Camooweal. What a great spot! Quite a few of us here waiting for the border to open. Friendly crowd. Happy hour with lots of laughs each day at 4pm.

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Great trip to Winton. It really is big Sky country.

Winton’s highlights include Arno’s Wall, made out of bits of junk, and the Waltzing Matilda Centre.

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Number 1 on the Must Do This Trip list has now been achieved. Went to the Australian Age of Dinosaurs today, which is about 25k out of Winton. I’m so glad I did. It is incredibly interesting.

The tour starts off in the fossil preparation laboratory

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then progresses to a species collection room

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and, lastly, to dinosaur canyon.

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It is fascinating and so well done. However, they have plans to make it absolutely extraordinary over the next few years.

The museum is on top of a mesa and the area’s been declared an internationally accredited Dark Sky Reserve. They’ve started working on an observatory and viewing towers and, when finished, will have constellation tours. I can’t wait to see it. I had hoped some parts were open now but, unfortunately, not yet.

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Arrived in Barcaldine on Monday 6 July

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and booked into The Homestead CP. You’ll remember it Kirsty, we stayed there on our way back from The Kimberley.

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Went to the bank to get some $1’s and $2’s for washing machines and had a chat with Lyn in the bank.

After doing my washing at The Homestead then drove out to Lara Wetlands on Lara Station.

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What an absolutely top spot! It’s on a working cattle station. There are large lakes, lots of birds, free use of bikes and kayaks plus a wonderfully hot, therapeutic artesian pool.

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5pm is happy hour and there’s a couple who sing country and western (heaven help me!) while the sun sets.

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However, the weirdest thing. Who should pull in beside me? Anne and Russ, my neighbours from over the road. Seriously? You couldn’t have timed it if you tried!

After spending 3 great days there, I left this morning but stopped in Barcaldine for breakfast. In comes Lyn (from the bank) and says, “We’re all talking about you running into your neighbours out at Lara. What a coincidence.”. Haaa, Lara is about 40k from Barcaldine but the old grapevine obviously still works a treat in the bush!

After spending a couple of nights in Emerald cleaning up the van (and me!) I took off this morning heading towards Barcaldine.

Stopped at Alpha, population nearly 200, for a coffee. The servo is everything to the town apart from the pub. There was a bloke in front of me wanting a pie and a coffee. He handed over two handfuls of loose change to pay. He asked if the lady minded to which she replied that, so long as it was the right amount, that was fine.

Anyway, after counting it out, he was short $3. He said he might have more change in the ute and went outside to look.

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I asked for a coffee and told the woman that I’d pay the bloke’s $3 too.

When she returned with my coffee she asked if I knew the man and, when I said no, she insisted I have the coffee for free for being kind and didn’t bother about the $3 either.

Aren’t people nice? Made my day!

Got tired of driving so stopped at a “donation only” campsite on the Jordan River at Jericho. It is fabulous here! The water’s a bit muddy but it’s peaceful and there are heaps of birds.

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Cheers!!

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And then, a beautiful sunset.

Followed the next evening by an even better one.

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Arrived late this arv. Plenty of people here in this lovely “freedom camping” site by the river. Toilets have strict rules – leave the doors open when you’re finished and the toilet lids shut to discourage snakes. Fine by me.

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Chatted with a few here – from Coolum, Buderim and Caloundra. No getting away from the sunny coast.

Got a few good tips about Darwin from the Coolum folk. Seems to be quite a few of us headed that way. They better not decide to keep the borders shut!

And what a difference a day (and a few hours driving) makes. So much warmer today and tonight. Far more comfortable! I love this. Camped by a river in the donga with a few like minded others listening to the birds settling in for the night and getting the campfire going. Bliss!

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