Yule River on Mandu Station was a really great spot for a couple of days rest. Lots of birdlife and a few cows to keep us amused then on to Miaree Pool, via one of what used to be my fave spots but which is now sadly closed, Whim Creek pub.
Miaree Pool is a beautiful free camp!
Abundant birdlife and plenty of wildflowers.
And on to Robe River, smelling a bit woofy, but hey, we’re travelling! I think I might have sunk to a whole new low (even for me) by wearing the same clothes for several days and sleeping in them too. Oh well … Gotta be frugal with water in the Outback.
We took a bit of a side tour into Onslow.
Kirsty thought it was a very nice little town. I thought it was a waste of petrol! On top of which it has to be the sandfly capital of the world and I was bitten to bits! Not sure what the whole “Paparazzi Dogs” sculpture is about but a nice young Aboriginal guy took heaps of photos for us and I reciprocated.
A lot of travellers along the way had raved about Bullara Cattle Station so we figured we should stop there to see what all the fuss was about. It’s around 90k or so south of Exmouth and basically just in the Donga. However, it is brilliantly run. Plenty of staff, who are friendly and informative. There is a cafe with barista coffee, an absolute luxury in this neck of the woods, and selling their famous scones and pies. Well, we like to support the locals.
Every night there is some sort of dinner, using meat from the property, and entertainment. We arrived on a Friday, which is burger night. $13.50 – a bargain – on the most impressive bbq I’ve ever seen.
They’ve been known to cook 330 burgers in an hour and reckon they beat Maccas. You bring your own plate, chair and drinks – queue when told – to get your bun, burger, onion, cheese, beetroot, slaw and sauce, then sit and enjoy while listening to the singer and singing along.
Left the absolutely stunningly gorgeous 80 Mile Beach this morning after having stayed an extra day due to ….. never mind, it’s none of your business, isn’t that right Kirsty? And headed south with a first stop at Cape Keraudren.
Very beautiful but no shade, open, exposed and very hot. So on to De Grey where we had intended to stop but … unfortunately, Neil (the P#$pot) we had previously had the displeasure of running into in Fitzroy Crossing, was there and latched on to us immediately (2 beer cans in hand) telling tales of woe of his divorce and how she had “taken him to the cleaners” etc. Although we were tired and didn’t really want to move on, Neil was a very good reason to.
Into Port Hedland for groceries and now we’re at Yule River which a very kind station owner let’s campers stay by the river on his property. It’s beautiful here, plenty of birds and some cows have just come over for a look too.
Into the beautiful WA and our first stop is at Kununurra for some groceries after handing over all fruit and veg at the border then on to Purnululu for the night. On Kirsty’s Must Do List is a helicopter ride over the Bungle Bungles. We arrived at the park about 2.30pm and there was a space on the 3pm flight so off she went.
The campground was a bit crappy so we left the next day to head to Fitzroy Crossing where we’d stayed before and really liked. Stopped at Hall’s Creek for petrol (not somewhere you stop for fun). Service Station has large signs to lock your car while filling and paying. The whole town is barred or caged up and the Tourist Info Office, which previously had some lovely merchandise, has closed altogether. A quick coffee in a cage
The two other things on Kirsty’s Must Do List were a cruise on the Victoria River at Timber Creek which unfortunately had stopped due to Covid and had never resumed, and the Geike Gorge cruise from Fitzroy Crossing which we had both done previously and really enjoyed. We duly booked for the 4pm cruise and arrived in plenty of time. Hung about chatting with the other passengers as the Ranger said there was going to be a delay. Half an hour later another ranger comes to tell us that a King Brown had been sunning itself on the boat and when they tried to catch it, it hid under the seats and they couldn’t get it out. Cruise cancelled due to King Brown!! Kirsty was very disappointed but it wouldn’t have been good to be on the trip and have the snake reappear – decisions, get bitten by a King Brown or jump overboard and take your chances with the crocs.
Poor Kirsty only got to do one of her four Must Do’s but, it’s ok, cos I have a big list and she can do mine with me plus we’re heading to Derby so she can do the Horizontal Falls trip.
Stopped overnight at a great free stop further along the way called Mary Pool,
and while sitting doing nothing except soaking up the serenity, I spied a Bowerbird’s bower. How lucky was that?
Then on to Derby
where we stayed at Birdwood Cattle Station on the Gibb River Road as we’d been advised it wasn’t safe to stay in town.
The airport was only about half an hour away from camp and well out of town so it was easy for me to drop Kirsty off to do her tour. She said it was fantastic but, at $1,000 for a five hour trip to see rushing water, I’m happy I stayed behind.
Then on to Broome, which we hadn’t planned on going to but, at the last minute decided to go up to Cape Leveque. We had been there 9 years ago when it was a rugged 4×4 track only but we’d heard that it was now sealed road all the way up and, as it was so stunningly beautiful, figured we’d have another look.
But the newish bitumin road up the centre of The Dampier Peninsula is literally the road to nowhere . All the roads off to various points of interest and scenic spots had been blocked off and we were warned of steep fines should we try to enter. We were told that the two First Nation communities, who now owned the land, were feuding so had decided to close everything up. We drove 416kms to look at bitumen. The less said about that the better.
Neverthless, we did happen to be in Broome at the right time (again) to witness the Staircase to the Moon.
Starting to see quite a few wildflowers now, which is just gorgeous.
A quick side trip in to see Port Smith (very pretty)
and now we’re at the truly stunningly gorgeous 80 Mile Beach.
Been awhile since I posted – too busy, lots of travelling and … couldn’t be bothered!
Quick catch up now.
After getting into the NT I spent the first night at Barkley Homestead. Always a good stop especially for their 4 to 6pm happy hours and $5 glasses of Cardboard-onnay! It’s a great time to chat and share stories with other travellers. Last time I stayed here I was surprised to see my neighbours from Bribie also in the bar.
Before heading off the next morning I checked my oil and water and noticed the coolant had decreased a little so topped her up and took off for Banka Banka Station. This is another really good place to stop. Happy hour each night at 5pm around the campfire with some sort of entertainment. This time we had an old fellow singing Australian country songs and bush ballads. He was actually pretty good.
Then on to Daly Waters where I previously have stayed behind the pub but decided to stop at the roadhouse instead. Was camped each side of me by some lovely people and we chatted and watched the bison in the paddock in front of us not to mention an abundance of bird life.
Then on to the fabulous Mataranka where I swam in the thermal springs, talked to the beautiful peacocks
plus found a great cafe. Hello Mataranka!
Then, disaster struck. Once again checked my coolant, as I was concerned it was down a bit previously, and to my horror it was down so low as to be barely visible in the bottom of the tank.
Bless you Roper River Transport for having one of your mechanics take time out to look at it for me and diagnose the need for a new water pump. It was recommended that I limp through to Darwin to get it fixed, which I did. My lovely new Delica mechanic in Brisbane sorted out the parts for me so all I had to do was collect them in Darwin and find a mechanic to do the work.
Fortunately for me, Kirsty had been staying at her cousin Jacqui’s place in Darwin, and Jacqui very generously insisted I come and stay there too which I did. Although the whole thing was a bit of a pain in the butt and I had not intended to go to Darwin, I actually had a very pleasant week there. Jacqui is a lawyer too so was busy with work during the day but we managed to head out to some nice restaurants for dinners at night.
Kirsty also very kindly drove me around to various places to do a bit of sightseeing –
the wave pool in Darwin, Fogg’s Dam to check out the birds and various great cafes.
Jacqui lives not far from Perth airport and the airforce were running exercises with their fighter jets. What a spectacular sight! Not to mention the ultrasonic roar. A much better show than Top Gun.
Finally Mitsy’s bits are fixed and we head off early on Saturday 3 September to our first camp that night at Vince Connolly/Limestone Creek Reserve. Absolutely top free camp spot. Clean drop toilets, shade, plenty of room and sufficiently off the road to not have too much noise.
Lovely scenery and plenty of birdlife along the way over the next couple of days with an overnight stop at Saddle Creek
and then in to WA at long last!
I know that’s the “leaving” WA sign but the welcome sign on the other side of the road had the quarantine station as the backdrop. Not pretty at all!
The problem with not writing every day, or at least regularly, is that time wizzes by and then there’s a stack to catch up on.
I headed off around 8am on Tuesday 9 August with a roughly mapped out itinerary to Edith Falls where I’ll meet up with Kirsty on 28 August. Naturally my first stop was for morning tea at the much celebrated bakery at Blackbutt and the vanilla slice/beesting did not disappoint. Thanks for the tip Gen.
Was meant to spend the first night in Miles but the campsite beside the river there was home to a mob of huts and large machinery for working on the road. So, I moseyed on to a place that sounded interesting on Wikicamps. What a find. Judd’s Lagoon just out of Yulebar. Nothing there but a drop toot and a garbage bin but it’s so peaceful and beside a lovely lagoon just chockers with bird life. Definitely a spot to return to.
It was a super chilly night and in the morning the mist was rising from the lagoon and a sole pelican was happily swimming along enjoying the early morning peace. Spot the pelican?
Had a night at Augathella, meat ant country,
and then on to Lara Wetlands.
That’s me on the other side along with half the population of Australia.
Along the way I noticed an occasional “clunk” towards the back wheel which bothered me a bit so I took Mitsy in to the mechanic in Barcaldine.
Had coffee while waiting.
Then back to collect Mitsy. Nice chap, said it’s only your spare tyre cage has come a bit loose, which he tightened up, took $50 from me and sent me on my way. I was thrilled. Such a simple fix, nothing to worry about.
Not twenty minutes from Barky, the dreaded “clunk” started up again and banged and thumped all the way to Winton. By this time I’m seriously concerned. As I had arrived at 4pm on Friday, there was nothing to do but wait for Monday to see someone about it. I couldn’t get into the park in town that I usually go to and had to head out on the outskirts to a new park. Told the proprietor my tale of woe and he suggested I get on to a welder cos the tyre cage obviously needed more than just tightening. Gave me a number to ring. Josh, the welder, was out on a property but would see me about 4.30 Monday arvo.
I managed to get into the town park (opposite the Tattersalls Hotel (very handy, yeah?) on Monday morning and waited for Josh. He actually came as promised. Took me outback on some big corrugations, could hear the clunk clunk, got under the car, just couldn’t work it out. He knew the mechanic in town (who had a sign on his door clearly stating he’d not be seeing anyone new for a week) but managed to get me in at 8am the next day. What a darling!
I spoke with a guy in the yard of the mechanics, who had been in wonderful Winton for nearly 4 weeks, waiting on parts!!! Well, as you can imagine, I’m getting pretty worried by this stage. I’d thoroughly done the ‘sights’ of Winton (in ten minutes) and I had to meet up with Kirsty on 28/08. All this stress and strain called for a wine with dinner so I took the bottle, I’d brought from home, out from the wheel well and calmed my nerves.
The mechanic was just over the road so got Mitsy there before 8am on Monday and was sent off for a walk while he looked at her.
Gotta love the garbage bins in town
Dino Bin!
Two and a half hours later, went back. Mechanic said he’d taken her over bumps and corrugations but no clunk. He put her up on the hoist but couldn’t see a thing wrong. “Sorry love but you head off and if something happens ring me and I’ll come out.”
Well, I’m not feeling too confident but off I go to Cloncurry. And, what do you know? Not a clunk!!! Purring like a kitten.
Now, I’ll give you a minute to join the dots……….yep, that’s right, you got it. No, don’t say anything. (You bloody idiot Lynne!). No, shush, I said don’t say anything. You’re cruel!! Could have happened to anyone.
That bottle of wine in the wheel well cost me over $200 – not to mention all the worry. 🤭
To make matters worse, I really wanted to go to the dark sky observatory in Winton. Have been trying to get there the last couple of years. Wouldn’t you know it? Even though I spent 4 days in Winton? Only open Tuesdays and Thursdays. Sheesh!
But, ever onwards. The drive to Cloncurry was truly special (and, yes, clunk free). Lots of wildflowers
and hundreds of flocks of budgies. Really beautiful. However, when I pulled in to the Curry, I found one had come along for the ride
Poor little darling. I felt awful! Sad thing is that I’m pretty sure I left a few more on the road.
On then to one of my favourite spots, the billabong west of Camooweal. There’s something about it that’s so peaceful plus the birdlife is prolific.
However, because people feed them, the brolgas can be quite aggressive and this male hissed and jumped at me when I wouldn’t share my Vegemite toast.
I had intended to stay there today but got up to an almighty wind that turned this beautiful place into an unbearable dustbowl. Packed up and took off to Barkley Homestead where I’m now enjoying happy hour $5 wine and am about to have dinner.
Is there anything better than being camped by water in the outback (even if it is a muddy sludge), with a cuppa, a good book and plenty of birds to watch? Bliss!
I’m by the Neil Turner Weir near Mitchell. Fabulous spot and there are hordes here who concur. The nights are freezing – was -2° when I woke this morning – but it’s now sunny and warm so long as you can get a spot out of the very cold wind.
Sadly the weather has not been great and, due to rain around Cunnumulla and Thargomindah, a few places I had hoped to visit were unreachable. Oh well .. However, heading into Thargomindah I had to swerve three times to avoid tortoises on the road! Not a sight you’d generally see. In this generally dry and arid country, where the heck do they come from? More importantly, what the heck are they doing on the road?
There have been some patches of wildflowers out along the way with lots of bushes and trees getting ready to bloom. Not as spectacular as in WA but pretty good just the same.
Also have been lucky enough to see a mum and two baby brolgas (actually nearly collected one of them) and several lots of emu chicks. Quite a treat. Also plenty of lizards and 4 snakes so far.
Not to mention your usual idiot camper who, when faced with acres of space, still finds it necessary to park two metres from you.
Had intended to leave Cooyar early and head to one of my favourite cafes in Dalby for breakfast, however got chatting and dog patting so it wasn’t til after 9am that I hit the road.
Nevertheless, just in time for morning tea I landed at the Urban Paddock in Dalby. Beautiful cafe in an old house with a very different and delicious menu.
Feeling pretty chirpy after that ginormous slab of strawberry cake, I drove on to Lake Broadwater about 30 ks in some direction or other from Dalby.
The conservation park has recently had some improvements made with new toilet/shower blocks added – all for $6.75 a head. In the early evening Therese, the ranger, comes around bearing chopped wood and lots of info on the birds and surrounding area.
The lake is prolific with birds and I was lucky enough to see a pair of rainbow bee eaters amongst lots of other more common birds such as spoonbills, pelicans, galahs, lorikeets, corellas etc.
Had a fabulous sleep – pitch black, dead quiet!
This morning I took off early and checked out the camp at Tara, didn’t think much of it, and continued on to Meandarra. Camping beside the creek is $5 for 3 nights with hot showers and toilets and an easy stroll into the town.
There are 2 very large signs on the way in pointing to the “shopping centre”
However, I think the signs are bigger than the centre.
Still, no complaints from me. I’ve got a shady spot, a cuppa and a biscuit. Life is good!
It was a slow start today, for various reasons, and looked like I might have to postpone til tomorrow but by 1pm I thought “Bugger it!” and headed off. Beautiful weather and traffic easy. About 4pm I stopped for the night at the Swinging Bridge in Cooyar. This is a free camp provided by the council, however there are a few powered sites for a contribution of $5 payable at the pub. The bridge has been walked, the billy has boiled and the neighbours have been chatted to. Jobs are done for the day! All I have to do now is look at the abundant bird life. Great spot here.
Spent Friday night at Mt Surprise in a seriously spooky caravan park run by an old zombie-ish, no facial expression, woman. Yikes!!!! However, to alleviate the nerves, we went to the pub for dinner. No tap beer and only box Chardy (and when I said I’d have a glass of that, the bartender told me I was brave!) but dinner was delish and so huge we got a doggy bag and had the leftovers the next night.
Left early the next morning for Undara. The road was sealed all the way. Bliss! We saw a beautiful bustard
and a daddy emu with his two kids
plus a couple of snakes and a fabulous wedge tailed eagle.
The resort is lovely and well set out. It has made good use of many old train carriages which have become accommodation, admin offices and the restaurant.
Toured the lava tubes in the afternoon. Quite spectacular.
Great camping area set in bushland with lots of birds and walleroos hopping about.
Ran into 3 guys we’d met at Cobbold and joined them for drinks around the campfire that night – but that’s another story and not for publication.
The tour guide said we might see some Rufus betongs around the campsite at night. I went for a walk looking for them but no luck. Kirsty heard a noise in the night and thinks she saw one under our table. Darn!!
One of the best places I’ve been to in Australia was Chambers Gorge on El Questro station in the Kimberly and now Cobbold Gorge is right up there with it.
The road in is dirt but not too badly corrugated except in parts. Unfortunately I cracked my windscreen when a numbnut drove past at a hundred miles an hour. Did a couple of 4×4 creek crossings but nothing too deep or long.
The resort at the gorge is well set out beside a small lake with free kayaking. There’s a restaurant, bar, infinity pool, spa and swim up bar.
We obviously arrived at “celebrity” holiday time as Bob Katter was there as well as Josh Thomas the comedian.
Took off that afternoon on a 3 hour tour. A little bus took us to a stop near the water
where we boarded a very quiet motorised flat bottomed boat to cruise the gorge.
After the boat trip we did a bush walk up to the top of the gorge where we crossed a glass bridge (after putting surgery socks over our boots to stop scratching on the glass).
And, of course, there’s one in every crowd.
A walk back to the bus, played “spot a croc” on the way and our fabulous 3 hour tour was over.
